It is not entirely pleasant swimming deliberately against
the tide. This effort becomes
particularly problematic when it concerns an issue that in the final analysis
does not really matter.
Food does not really matter.
Which is the message of the previous blog post and this
one. So thank you, and good night.
I shall now continue.
Although, possibly, alone.
It is the definition of curmudgeonliness to make a fuss
about what, in the grand scheme of things, is a relative irrelevance. Celebrity chefs, accorded disproportionate
adulation? Hardly an earthshaking
consideration. They are unlikely to have
heard about it in Pakistan.
Somebody’s got to
make me feel terrible about myself. Why
shouldn’t it be chefs? Not just chefs, of course. But they are now added to the list.
The same level of “Who cares-edness” applies equally to this
follow-up as well, concerning, this
time, not the preparers of food but the actual food itself.
Let’s begin with the basics.
“What is food?”
You see the title for this post – “Nouriture”? That’s French for “food.” From the look of it , “nouriture” appears to
derive from the same “word family” as the word “nourishment.”
To me, the French have it right, because that is
fundamentally what food is.
Nourishment.
And that’s it.
The rest is window dressing.
Gustatorial gift-wrapping for the nourishment.
And nothing more.
It is only recently
that comestibility has been converted into something high-falutin’ly
fancier. For it was not always thus.
In prehistoric times, for example, the most exciting thing
about food was,
“We found some!”
Finding food meant you wouldn’t die. For a while.
After that, to maintain that lucky streak,
You had to find food again!
And again. And again. And again.
Your entire life was just food shopping with spears.
How did it taste? It
tasted wonderful. Especially compared to
the alternative, which if you did not
find food, was wood. And when you ran
out of wood, was “dead.”
After the “availability issue” was taken care of, the next
stage in the operation might be called “Food 2.0”.
The “procurement problem” having been covered, it was now a question of
making distinctions.
Once, the “beginning and end” of the “dining experience”
could be fully delineated by the words,
“We ate.”
As you’ll recall from Oliver,
there were no complaints about the quality of the gruel. Little Oliver never said, “Can you put some
salt in this?” He said, “Please, sir, I
want some more.”
Compared with those easygoing standards, our microscopic attention to food would
appear to be the height of ingratitude and snobbery. For those urchins, it was,
“‘as it got any bugs in it?
Then it’s good.”
Today’s diners expect better.
Having jumped to a more sophisticated level, we find two
areas of concern about food: Its healthiness
and its delectability.
Healthiness:
We now know which foods are good for us. Though not precisely, as the rules appear to continually
fluctuate. Upon waking up, a cryogenetically
frozen Woody Allen in Sleeper (1973)
returned to discover that pastrami sandwiches were now good for you. The “rights and wrongs” in these matters have
turned out to be precariously fickle.
Lemme go out on a limb here:
Nobody wants to die. (I didn’t
say it was a long limb.) Throughout history, living as long as you can
has been a continuing aspiration. From
the earliest of times, people of means, by whom I mean people who had food
options beyond the alternative of “food” or “no food” have made concerted
efforts to eat things that would prolong their lives rather than shorten
them. (With the exception of barbecue.)
Our nutritional knowhow may have advanced in these matters,
but the primary objective remains remarkably consistent.
“Death: Not so fast. I’m taking fish oil and eating gluten-free
hamburger buns.”
Today, the goal remains to eat the right things so you will
not only live, you will alive longer and healthier. The only qualifying proviso in this regard is
that we may not know what we’re talking about. (They may never
have.) But at least we’re trying. (And so did they.)
Moving from the health-conscious to the epicurean…
Delectability:
We are now in the “Quintessential Dining Experience”
department. Call it “Food 3.0”. An exponential step up. (Some might say. Though not everybody.)
There is enough food.
You have determined what’s good for you.
Enter:
The palate and the taste buds.
This is not necessarily a dollars issue. It is not merely the “Best Gourmet Meal At Unreasonable
Prices.” What has happened is that, in dining
categories across the board, we have become more knowledgeable and more
demanding. “Good enough” is no longer
good enough. It has to be “The Best.”
“The Best Bagel.”
“The Best Greasy Hamburger.” “The
Best Grilled Cheese Sandwich.” “The Best
Spicy Green Stuff You Put On A Burrito.”
Everybody’s an expert.
And they are not only proclaiming their expertise. If you are missing “The Best”, they assert, you
may not know it, but your life is bereft of significant meaning.
My wife and daughter Anna are at least “borderline foodies.” Usually on the upscale side of things, although they also extol Tacos Por Favor. Being around them has immeasurably upgraded
my palate. Which, it turns out, is an
unexpected mixed blessing.
They have introduced me to “finer dining.” But since most prepared food is all right but
rarely spectacular, I have now joined them in being regularly disappointed.
Meaning I can no longer enjoy restaurants that I once thought were all
right. Is that better for me, or worse?
It is in this context – and this context alone – that I
identify with conservatives’ frustration with our sexualized society. When bombarded by fads and fashions, especially
those favoring increased visceral pleasure, whether you want it or not, it’s
everywhere. And there is nothing you can
do but complain about it.
Which is helpful, of course, because complaining about
things turns things immediately back to to the way they once were.
Did you hear me just sigh?
2 comments:
I am reminded of Douglas Adams' wonderful consolidation of the 3 stages of civilization: 1, how can we eat; 2, what shall we eat; 3, where shall we have lunch.
more importantly for you, though, is the pernickety correction that the French word is actually "nourriture".
wg
OCD or Ocd or ocd? Does the way that the term is expressed have a bearing on the condition?
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